When you think about it, afternoon tea might well have been designed with tourists in mind. At 3 in the afternoon, you may find yourself longing for a break from all the sightseeing, but not wanting to return to your hotel room. The following are some of my favorite teatime stops:
A popular tea is served in the Garden Terrace of the Four Seasons Hotel, M Street NW (tel. 202/342-0444), where one wall of windows overlooks the C&O Canal. The Garden Terrace serves drinks and light fare, as well as tea, so expect a mix of businesspeople, couples, and families. This is one place where a children's tea is offered (a choice of tea, milkshake, or soda, with a brownie, peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich, chocolate-chip cookie, and strawberries dipped in chocolate). Adults get one scone with double Devon cream and both raspberry and blueberry jam, and a variety of finger sandwiches, tartlets, tea cakes, and cookies that change daily. Among the 16 teas are some herbal and decaffeinated brews; champagne and sherries are available at a surcharge. A pianist plays during afternoon tea, Friday through Sunday. Tea is served daily from 2 to 5pm. The price is $25 per adult and $12 per child; reservations suggested. Dress presentably casual.
At The Jefferson Hotel, 1200 16th St. NW (at M St.; tel. 202/833-6206), scones are baked while you wait -- they take about 15 minutes -- so they come to you hot and fragrant, served with Devon cream and jam. Afternoon tea is served in the cozy bar/lounge, where original letters and other documents written by Thomas Jefferson hang on the paneled walls. Sink into a red-leather chair and relax as you nibble on those scones; tea sandwiches filled with cucumber and cheese, duck paté, or smoked salmon; and homemade cookies and miniature fruit tarts. You may choose from a selection of 10 to 16 teas. Afternoon tea is served daily from 3 to 5pm for $28 per person. Dress neatly.
Teaism, 400 Eighth St. NW (tel. 202/638-6010), offers a choice of two very different kinds of afternoon teas: the more traditional menu of tea sandwiches, ginger scone, cookies, lime curd tartlets, Swiss chocolates, and a pot of tea; or the Asian menu, which offers you rice balls with pickle and sesame, tea-cured salmon and nori, tofu with ginger, green tea ice cream, mochi, plum truffle, and a pot of tea. Both are delicious, and are served daily from 2:30 to 5:30pm, for $15 each. Note: The Lafayette Square branch of Teaism also offers afternoon tea.
The tea at Washington National Cathedral, Massachusetts and Wisconsin avenues NW (tel. 202/537-8993), begins with a tour of the world's sixth-largest cathedral, or, in May and September, a choice of either a garden or cathedral tour, winding up on the seventh floor of the West tower, whose arched windows take in a stunning view of the city and beyond to the Sugarloaf Mountains in Maryland. Tea consists of scones and jam; sandwich triangles of egg salad or smoked salmon, or maybe pastry cups of tarragon chicken salad; tiny pastries; and brewed tea. During the school year, you can descend from the tower in time to enjoy evensong services performed at 5:30pm by the Youth Choir. Tea is served every Tuesday and Wednesday at 3pm following a 1:30pm tour, for $22 per person. Reserve as far in advance as possible (the cathedral accepts reservations up to 6 months ahead).